Queenstown: a winter wonderland

Queenstown attracts adrenaline junkies from all corners of the world and for the unassuming, it seems like this is all the small New Zealand town has to offer. But the mountains surrounding it offer some great ski resorts and with New Zealand only being a hop, skip and a jump away from Australia, there’s no excuse not to visit this beautiful place!

QUEENSTOWN TIDBITS

Coffee haunts:

  • Bespoke Kitchen
  • Yonder Cafe
  • Vudu Cafe & Larder

New Zealand tips & tricks:

  • New Zealand, like Australia is mostly a cashless economy. No need to organise NZD, as you can use your usual debit / credit cards.
  • You probably won’t find many locals in Queenstown. It’s a true tourist town, packed with restaurants, shops, activity centres and bars.
  • Apple Maps is brilliant. You can enter a location, click the ‘public transport’ option and it will tell you exactly which platform to get to, what direction to head, etc.
  • The streets of the city centre are set out like a grid, making it easy to find your way.
  • If you can, find accommodation within walking distance of town.

GETTING TO QUEENSTOWN

Long-hailed as the thrill-seeking capital of the Southern Hemisphere, I had more interest in visiting other places in New Zealand rather than subject myself to the horror that is bungee-jumping (prefer having my feet firmly on the ground thank you very much!). But when friends of mine suggested a ski trip costing less than $1,000 I couldn’t pass it up.

You can fly direct to Queenstown from most locations on the east coast of Australia, with some flights going for as little as AUD$200. Make sure you’re awake for at least the last 30min of the flight – the views coming in to Queenstown are breathtaking. Fair warning though, the flight path goes through a valley on the way into Queenstown so if it’s windy, it can be rather bumpy.

View from the top of The Remarkables.

An Uber from the airport to the middle of town will set you back around NZD$40. There is also a bus available that will drop you off in the town centre directly from the airport and tickets are around NZD$5 each way.

EXPLORING QUEENSTOWN

If you’re within walking distance, head on down to town. From a cookie shop that has queues out the door from about 9am, to beautiful lakeside views along the esplanade you’ll soon forget that the town is filled with tourists.

Tucked away at one end of town is the botanical gardens. It doesn’t look like much from the entrance, but is a lovely park to spend an afternoon in. The best part? It has an 18-hole frisbee-golf course. We hired frisbees from Green Toad in town and spent the better half of an afternoon mastering the art of flinging a frisbee. I may or may not have spent a good 10 minutes retrieving said frisbee from the middle of the lake.

While you’re up that end of town, be sure to make a booking at Botswana Butchery, your tastebuds will thank you for it! Hands down one of the best fine dining restaurants in Queenstown, it is definitely worth splurging there for a night.

If you want to explore the surrounds of Queenstown and all that it has to offer, a winery tour could be your thing. Alpine Wine Tours operate small tours of 6-8 people and have an envious knowledge of all things ‘Valley of the Vines’. The friendly host will pick you up from your accommodation / hotel and transport you to Gibbston in the Central Otago region, otherwise known as the ‘Valley of the Vines’.

One of the many wineries close to Queenstown.

My trip to Queenstown was centred around skiing (see below) and I had a 5-day ski pass to use during my 7-day trip. Fairly unsurprisingly, this didn’t leave much room for activities. If (and when!) I return, there’s definitely a few more things I’d like to tick off the bucket list:

  • Organise a trip to Milford Sound. The beauty of this landscape is unparalleled and enthralls all those who come and explore. Forest-covered mountains drop into pitch black waters providing one of nature’s most magical landscapes
  • Relax and get your Insta fix at Onsen Hot Pools. Be warned: you will need to book MONTHS in advance. I didn’t know this and missed out. Located just on the outskirts of Queenstown, you can easily get there by bus or Uber.
  • Catch the gondola up to the Skyline to take in the amazing views over Queenstown and then, if you’re game, ride the Luge back down the mountain! (Side note: the luge is only open in the summer months).

BECOMING A SNOW BUNNY

There are three easily-accessible mountains from Queenstown – Coronet Peak, Cardrona and The Remarkables. A lift pass can be purchased that will cover you for all 3 mountains, and starts at a 3-day pass. This will also give you access to the bus that departs from the centre of town to each peak. I’d recommend hiring ski gear (if needed) in town as opposed to on the mountain (it will generally be cheaper). There are so many options available and all have comparable prices so go where there is the least amount of people!

As an intermediate skier (for context I’m very comfortable on blue runs, comfortable on red runs and completely freak out on black runs), my favourite mountain was The Remarkables. The runs were slightly shorter than Coronet Peak and much less crowded. Overall, it seemed like there were more blue and red runs which meant greater variety during your time on the slopes.

Arguably some of the best snow in the Southern Hemisphere.

A few highlights:

  • If you’re a family or self-taught skier like me and have never been on the Magic Carpet, definitely go to The Remarkables. The main entrance / restaurant is below the first ski lift and so the only way up is via the Magic Carpet. Hilarious!
  • Hiking back to your accommodation from town at the end of the day in your ski boots IS NOT FUN. Locker hire is available on all mountains for NZD$10 per day and it is honestly a lifesaver. Great value if you’re with a group.
  • Terrain Parks your thing? Head to Coronet Peak for some serious jumps. They are located at the top of Greengates and will have you catching some serious air.
  • Finally, hike to the lookout at the summit of The Remarkables if you’re game. You can see the entire valley that Queenstown sits in, and is absolutely breathtaking. To get back down, either hike or challenge yourself on the off-piste bowl (see if you can beat my record of 5 tantrums before you make it back down!)

Coming up next: mountain adventures in Canada.

TAW

Kyoto: a modern culture clash

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The little sister of Tokyo, Kyoto is a staple when sampling all that Japan has to offer. It epitomises the true clash of tradition and technology. You can immerse yourself in the bright lights of Higashiyama or travel back through time down the side streets. 

KYOTO TIDBITS

Coffee haunts:

  • % Arabica, Higashiyama & Arashiyama
  • Len Hostel, Kawaramachi
  • Drip Drop Coffee Supply, Kyoto City

Japan Tips & Tricks:

  • Make sure your hotel / Airbnb has pocket wi-fi, it was a lifesaver when navigating the streets.
  • Apple Maps is brilliant. You can enter a location, click the ‘public transport’ option and it will tell you exactly which platform to get to, what direction to head, etc.
  • Buy a Suica card before you go. It will let you catch most trains (excluding Shinkansen) in multiple cities (including Tokyo AND Kyoto). Your local travel agent should be able to organise a Suica card along with your JR Rail Pass.
  • Modesty is key ladies. By Australian standards, I’m pretty modest. But in Japan, I felt like I was showing way too much skin. Think tights always, midi skirts and jackets even in warm temperatures

GETTING TO KYOTO

If travelling from Tokyo, grab a ticket on the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. It’s a great way to see the countryside of Japan and if it’s a clear day you might even spot Mt Fuji! If you have a JR Pass you can travel on the Hikari Line to Kyoto, however you still need to book a seat. It takes just over 2 hours to get to Kyoto, and once at the main station you may need to catch a local train out to where you are staying.

EXPLORING KYOTO

One thing I learnt from my time in Kyoto is to never underestimate the value of a Japanese hostel. Now I thought my backpacking days were well behind me, but one look inside Len Hostel and I was hooked. It is unlike any other backpackers I have stayed at during my travels (and there have been some doozy’s) – the private room was huge with its own sink. The bathrooms were shared, but honestly the cleanest shared bathrooms I’ve seen. And the best part? It wasn’t just guests that came into the cafe / bar at the entrance – even locals were a fan of this place!

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The cafe located in the Len Hostel.

Wander down (or catch a train to Kawaramachi or Gion-shijo station) to the main Gion strip. Be prepared (and treat yourself!) for a Matcha overload. Just about every second shop is selling some sort of green tinged item. Once you’ve had your fill, either head straight down the street to the Yasaka Shrine or wander the old town. These tiny little streets are full of traditional style merchant houses that exude peaceful living. Keep your eyes out while meandering as you may spot a Geisha hurrying from one house to another (generally followed en masse by cameras with tourists hanging off them).

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Traditional style house in the old town district.

One thing Kyoto is not short of are shrines. There are literally hundreds of shrines scattered in amongst the residential houses, so if shrines are your thing Kyoto is the place to be. Not into shrines? Don’t worry – there’s still plenty of things to see!

ALL FOR THE ‘GRAM

Kyoto plays host to some of the most Instagrammable places in Japan. Inevitably, this comes hand-in-hand with the crowds. My suggestion? Go early. The shops aren’t open, the partying tourists are still kicking their hangovers and there will be no one (almost) in the way of your shot. My favourites are listed below.

1. Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

My favourite place in Kyoto is by far the suburb / town of Arashiyama. This is home to the Insta-famous Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Located at the end of the Hankyu Arashiyama Line (approx. 30min from Kyoto), this little town is bursting with the colour green. Whilst a little difficult to find, take the time to walk through the park and into the Bamboo Grove. If you want to beat the crowds here, I recommend arriving by 9:00am at the latest (I arrived at 7:00am and was not the first one there!).

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In amongst the Bamboo.

Had enough of staring at tall, straight sticks? Go back out the way you came to grab a coffee and prosciutto baguette from % Arabica along the river. Hands down the best coffee I had in Japan came from this place. So much so, that I sourced it out on multiple occasions back in Kyoto (did NOT mind one bit that I had to leg it 20min to get that Melbourne-style coffee).

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Minimalism at its best at % Arabica.

On your way back to the station, cross the river and head along the path on the opposite side to the Bamboo Grove to get your fill of greenery. Keep your eye out for turtles in the river!

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Arashiyama has more than just Bamboo. Views from the river.

2. Fushimi Inari Shrine

…or better known as the Orange Gates. Catch the Keihan Line to Fushimi-Inari station and follow the crowds to the start of the gates. Again, it’s best to get here as early as you can to beat the masses – however, another trick is to keep walking. There are over 10,000 gates in the Shrine, and the deeper you go the less people there are. It is about a 45min walk to the summit of the shrine but I found it quite anti-climatic. The best thing to see in regards to the Fushimi Inari Shrine are, without doubt, the Gates.

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Heading up to the summit of Fushimi Inari.

3. Nijo castle

Nijo castle has always been on my list of places to visit since I was a child – mainly because of the Nightingale floors. However, 8-year old me was bitterly disappointed to find out that these floors within Nijo castle are just due to creaky nails, and not in fact invented to stop Ninja attacks.

Regardless, this castle is fascinating. There is an entrance fee of approx. ¥500 but to me it’s totally worth it. You must take your shoes off to enter the castle, and there are some restorations being done to the interior, but the information about the royal family over time and original structure is nothing like the royalty of the Western world. You aren’t allowed to take photos inside the castle which only adds to the enchantment.

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The grounds of Nijo Castle.

Coming up next: Becoming a snow bunny in Queenstown

Tokyo: the space invaders edition

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The cities of Japan are an insane assault on the senses. Every available space is used to its full potential. It’s a place where anything goes, and its’ mantra seems to follow the saying “the rules are; there are no rules”. But dig underneath the top layer of craziness, and you’ll find a place of wonder that is so far removed from anything back home. Toto, you’re not in Kansas anymore.

While 5 days in Tokyo was enough to tick off the main items from my list, it is easy to see how you can go wandering down a rabbit hole and never want to leave. The people are friendly and helpful, the public transport system surprisingly easy to navigate (it does help if you have a portable wi-fi modem, usually called pocket wi-fi!) and there are new things to see around every corner. The list below covers off a few of my favourite places to eat, things to see and must-do activities but it is by no means a complete guide to Tokyo. I’m not sure even a local could pull that off!

TOKYO TIDBITS

Coffee haunts:

  • Essence Cafe, Ebisu
  • Mr Farmer, Harajuku
  • Sarutahiko Coffee, Ebisu
  • Saturdays NYC, Daikanyama
  • About Life Coffee, Shibuya
  • Why Juice?, Daikanyama & Shibuya

Japan Tips & Tricks:

  • Make sure your hotel / Airbnb has pocket wi-fi, it was a lifesaver when navigating the streets. It’s basically a portable wi-fi modem and most hotels or Airbnb’s should come with one.
  • Apple Maps is brilliant. You can enter a location, click the ‘public transport’ option and it will tell you exactly which platform to get to, what direction to head, etc.
  • Buy a Suica card before you go. A Suica card will let you catch most trains (excluding Shinkansen) in multiple cities (including Tokyo AND Kyoto). Your local travel agent should be able to organise a Suica card along with your JR Rail Pass.
  • Modesty is key ladies. By Australian standards, I’m pretty modest. But in Japan, I felt like I was showing way too much skin. Think tights always, midi skirts and jackets even in warm temperatures.

ARRIVING IN TOKYO

If you’re flying direct to Tokyo, you’ll most likely arrive at the main airport, Narita International Airport. You’re actually still about an hour away from the city, so one of the best pre-travel items to organise is a JR pass and/or Suica card. As we only had a 7 day JR pass, we used the Suica card to catch the train from Narita to our accommodation. Don’t stress if you miss your train either, another one will come within 5 minutes.

One thing becomes immediately clear as you navigate the streets of Tokyo – all available space is used. Apartments basically sit on top of each other, cafes and restaurants have around 10 seats on average, usually with a line of waiting customers out the door. So be warned, accommodation is on the smaller side. But this is not really an issue as this is simply a place to rest, there is too much to see and do to be inside all day.

If you want to avoid the crowds, I recommend staying in Ebisu. It was busy, but didn’t have the hectic vibe of places like Harajuku, Shinjuku or Akihabara and a good place to set up base.

Like most countries (apart from Australia), Tokyo people are late risers. Don’t expect to see places open until 10am at the earliest (most boutique shops didn’t open until 11am, and some even later). Some cafes are open earlier for commuters and a local favourite was Essence cafe. This is a quaint coffee shop doubling as a florist and bar at night and does a mean ‘1 shot morning buffet’ for ¥500. We found out the hard way that ‘1 shot’ means you are allowed to visit the buffet once, there are no coming back for seconds.

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1-Shot Buffet breakfast from Essence Cafe, Ebisu.

EXPLORING TOKYO

The next suburb across from Ebisu is Daikanyama, and was by far my favourite suburb we visited. We spent half a day exploring the eccentric boutique shops that line the streets of Daikanyama, but could easily spend more. If the line isn’t too long, definitely stop for some of the fluffiest stuffed pancakes you’ll see at Flippers. And be sure to check out Stalogy next door – it’s a stationary lover’s dream!

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Exploring the eccentric streets of Daikanyama.

When you’re ready to face the hustle and bustle of the city, catch the train to Harajuku. A shopping strip made famous by Japan’s street fashion and Gwen Stefani, the best time to glimpse the Harajuku fashion scene is on a Sunday. We managed to stumble across a number of impromptu fashion shoots and an Instagram fashion competition – all within the hour we cruised the streets! And while the main street is where you’ll see the craziest outfits, make sure you wander down a side street or two. Pick up a crepe (almost as good as a donut) from one of the many creperie trucks to pump up the blood sugar levels and check out the vintage clothes and accessories at RagTag. The vintage Chanel collection is amazing (downside: I discovered vintage Chanel is barely cheaper than new Chanel).

Take a much needed break, head back up to Harajuku station and cross the road to find yourself within the sanctuary of Yoyogi Park. Once there, make your way to Meiji Shrine or ditch the crowds to discover the hidden sanctuary at the Meiji Jingu Inner Garden (well worth the ¥200 entrance fee).

If you’re after some homemade, traditional noodles that has warranted a Michelin star, definitely take the time to find Tamawarai. The prices are extremely reasonable for a Michelin star restaurant (think around ¥1,645 for soba). The outside of the restaurant looks like any other house along the street, but ring the bell and a waiter will soon attend to your needs. You may need to wait but it won’t be for long and there is a quaint little waiting room just outside.

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The waiting room of Tamawarai – only had to wait 15min before being shown to our table.

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Homemade buckwheat Soba noodles in broth.

If you can stand to be on your feet a bit longer, head back towards Ebisu and take the edge off at Bar Trench. The immaculately-dressed (even by Tokyo standards!) waiters will make a cocktail of your choosing to divine perfection under the dim lights and drum kit on the second floor.

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Inside Bar Trench.

Walking on the well-beaten path, it is hard to pass up visiting the main Tokyo city sites like Shibuya Crossing and Akihabara (‘Electric City’). Brave the 6-way pedestrian crossing and grab a Matcha latte from Starbucks before squeezing into whatever window space is available to watch the masses at Shibuya Crossing. Akihabara is a Tech / Anime lovers’ dream. Whilst it wasn’t for me, I did enjoy exploring the 8-storey chemist and discovering the world of Japanese beauty gadgets.

If you’re after a night out, start with some yakitori in Piss Alley (named for its early days when it was a dodgy destination for low-lifes to get a drink or ten, and then relieve themselves wherever they could) – but be prepared to wait, each restaurant only seats around 4 people. Once you’ve had your fill take the short walk to the Golden Gai, a laneway network of teeny bars. Don’t be perturbed if you get refused entry – a number of the bars are reserved for regular members and locals only. If there’s an English menu visible, chances are the bar accepts tourists. While you’re here, make sure you order a Shochu. Shochu is a distilled alcohol from a mixture of starches (rice, sweet potato, etc.) and is between wine and vodka in strength. It has a mild flavour and my preference is to have it on ice or with soda and a hint of lime. You won’t regret it!

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Piss Alley during daylight hours

If there’s one thing you must do in Tokyo, it’s drive around the city in go karts dressed up like Mario or Luigi. It’s insane to say the least and I totally thought I was going to die (at least for the first 10 minutes). But push through that, because it’s totally worth it. A fantastic way to see the city sights (we drove through Shibuya Crossing at least 5 times!), it is definitely something to tick off your bucket list. The other drivers on the road are polite and surprisingly used to go karts whizzing about the place. There’s also no need to worry about photos, your guide will take 100+ en route and airdrop them straight to your phone afterwards! It’s an experience you won’t forget – just maybe don’t tell your mum.

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Mario & Luigi hit the city streets of Tokyo.

Coming up next: Finding the zen in Kyoto

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